Editorial Print Modeling

Editorial Print Modeling:


Educating yourself to recognizing what editorial print modeling realistically “looks” like in a high fashion magazine is the first step to understanding the variations of the different types of editorial modeling and how it is different from the other more common types of “commercial” print modeling work. Editorial work in a magazine is a huge “jump-start” for a fashion model’s career. It is the experience many strive for.

“Editorial” print modeling refers to “magazine experience” for the model where a “story” is being told without words, but rather by photographic pictures (or groups of pictures) of the model in a high fashion magazine. This type of print modeling carries a very “prestigious” landmark on a model’s career. Its’ work includes the current fashion and beauty trends of society by showcasing designers, make-up, hairstyles, skin care, etc. as told and expressed via a pictorial story. Editorial modeling can even tell a story about all of the different aspects of people’s lifestyles. If you pick up any high-end fashion magazine you can find numerous examples of editorial print work.

Some editorials in magazines are considered so prestigious because they set the standards and trends for the current and “near future” of the market that the pictorial story is being told about. Refer back to those magazines that are from months, years, or even decades ago. Somehow, the editorial pictures you may find from that period of time have been a part of the history of fashion, beauty, or lifestyle as represented by that magazine’s staff.

Who thinks of the concepts of editorial stories in those elite high fashion magazines? There are teams of people all over the world who work for the various high-end magazines that have their input. These people write and create their concepts of what styles, models, designers, and trends are “IN” for any unknown given period of time. That makes them a very important part of the modeling industry. When glancing through those magazines you should note that an “editorial” is not an advertisement for any “specific” company, so if you see one specific product being advertised with its’ logo, then it’s an ad…that’s something different called a commercial print advertisement. If it “looks” editorial, but you see the company name in large print…it is meant to tell a story for that company’s image of what they want to sell to the consumer. High end fashion and beauty clients can place some creative, multi-page print ads into magazines that may mimic an editorial spread. The biggest difference is the rate that the model gets paid for doing a commercial, fashion ad for a high end client versus an editorial fashion spread for a magazine.

For the purposes of editorial modeling, pay close attention to how expressive, awkward, dramatic, artistic, and creative the poses of the model are versus the more refined poses you would see in a catalogue that emphasizes selling the clothes as #1. Remember, the editorial model promotes the story and concept via editorial pictures in magazines where the main emphasis is on the story or trends. In the magazine’s editorial (pictorial) spread there will be some sort of reference to names of designers and the cost of garments and/or accessories that are being featured, but it is not meant to act as a dedicated advertisement.

These magazine spreads get a lot of attention. Surprisingly, even though the editorial model is a strong statement in the “story”, it is only unfortunate for the model that this is NOT a high paying job (maybe only a few hundred dollars). This may be one of the only drawbacks of being an editorial model in the beginning. When you need the money probably the most (if you haven’t saved enough money to last you through this phase), this income doesn’t go very far in paying the high bills that go along with living and working in the “big city”. Most would expect models appearing in a famous high fashion magazine to be compensated well with money, but they are not because it’s not a paid advertisement by a client. It is a special feature created and presented by the magazine.

Apparently, from the fashion industry’s view, it’s the “prestigious” experience that has a lot of value to the model, so models have accepted this reality (whether or not it’s really fair). After all, when the magazine hires a model for an editorial spread they are hired to perform their service as a model representing the magazine’s concept and creative story…it’s a booking. It’s not a tax write-off for the model. The potential tear sheet may (or may not) bring more prestige and work for the model because truly it is not guaranteed no matter what anyone tries to offer as a reason to work for such less money. The magazines do play such a major role in the modeling and fashion industry that it’s a tough argument on the model’s behalf. The magazines rather monopolize on this fact, of course, so they will always find another model looking for their big break who will accept their terms. Could those famous fashion magazines afford to pay their featured editorial models more money? Only they know.

Remember this fact; everyone is replaceable in the modeling industry. It’s a harsh fact, yes. The ideal goal is to work and to adapt until you decide you don’t want to model anymore (before the industry decides you’re done). It doesn’t quite work that way because trends change, models age, and new-faced models pop up all over the place. There are more reasons, of course, but the fact that there will always be someone else to replace any model is why magazines do have that power to pay very low for their editorial placements.

Eventually, on the very positive side, it seems that the experience of editorial print modeling does lead to more money and prestige because of the increased exposure, tear sheets, and the demand for future bookings from clients who do pay more money (and that is pleasing). The editorial model is a standard of what the “beauty and fashion” message is for that moment in time, so everyone wants them. When an editorial story features that model, they are literally given a seal of approval as representing who and what is IN. So, moving on from the fact that it’s not even a little “high paying” job can lead the open-minded model to keep their business mind open, too. Consider the MANY, MANY “pros” to the model from the editorial experience. This part of their career rarely happens to a large percentage of aspiring models, so the #1 “pro” is that they are super-fortunate to even appear in and get tear sheets from a high fashion magazine.

Being realistic, there are many successful “commercial” print models that would have really loved to have been a high fashion editorial model, but they never had that opportunity. Once again, models are subject to other’s opinions and standards that control their career’s general success. There are things that models can do to increase their “editorial” skills and “look”, though, but there are just some models who will never get their chance at editorial modeling even though they may be uniquely beautiful, outwardly gorgeous, or even perfectly reach the standard sizes required of editorial models. It’s not easy to compete with the concept of “editorial” beauty, so your modeling career should be balanced if you strive for such a “prestigious” role. If the editorial modeling style is what you think you really want to do, you need to remember that those editorials may not pay your bills alone in itself, so that’s an area where a model should be well-rounded and versatile in many other types of modeling that can help supplement their income. There usually is no time for a busy fashion editorial model to have another job because a model has to be very flexible with their time for going on bookings, go-sees, fittings, etc. Establishing a back-up savings of money even in the early stages of a modeling career is crucial to hold you over as you build your career.

Things in the fashion industry can change quickly, so this can work toward your advantage if you are very close to starting your editorial modeling career, but the changes can be more harsh if you’ve already been established as an editorial model because many insiders within the industry will know you’re on the way down when the magazines stop booking you. That is the time to branch out to other modeling opportunities if you still want to work as a model. Editorial modeling is relatively for a very short period of time in most models’ careers, so the model that is fortunate to model as both an editorial and then a commercial model may see the long-term success in their career through the years.

If the opportunity for success happens, it is a wonderful landmark in the model’s career, so use it wisely. This is an opportunity to be positively recognized, so show your potential as being dependable, professional, and adaptable. Don’t blow the opportunity away by acting immature or childish. Being professional doesn’t mean being uptight and boring, either. There are interpersonal, social skills that need to be adapted for different occasions. The editorial model has contact with such a wide range of industry professionals that each has their unique role with diverse personalities.

REMINDER: Your life is your personal business, so be careful of what and how you communicate because first impressions are hard to change. For example, being late is very, very bad. Also, complaining can be annoying. Having a free-spirit can be youthful, but there is always a correct time and place to be a part of every party scene (and there are pros and cons to that which can make or break a model’s career if they don’t use any self-control appropriately in their lives.) Relationships do form with people over the span of a model’s career. Some people may be there for a very short time, but other relationships can last for years. It’s an industry of “acquaintances” that really have fewer “real” friends, but as long as you know your place and your role in the industry you can keep a better sense of who’s really there to help you. People tend to have motives that are self-orientated, so keep your eyes on people that can help you and be prepared to offer them the type of relationship that is okay with you, but not so they are taking advantage of you. This applies to relationships with other models, photographers, agents, clients, etc. There can be real friendships, and there can be golden opportunities made with the right people at the right time, but keep your “radar” on for people scamming or exploiting you.

The fashion industry is a fast, complicated institution full of many eccentric individuals. To please one individual may not be pleasing to another, while to please the RIGHT one may launch a young model’s career. There is an element of trend “followers” involved in responding to whatever the trend “setters” say is IN the moment, so the industry is truly guided by the elite, high fashion magazines. What does an editorial model look like? Back to the trends, this answer can have variations dependent upon the moment or particular designer. On average, an editorial model is not the standard, classic beauty that most people think of as being considered “pretty”. There are exceptions, but there must be something very unique and special that can make the model stand out. Often, editorial models have a somewhat quirky look that stands out as obviously unusual. Odd and exotic looks, very tall height, slim built bodies, and models who have the ability to be “chameleon-like” in their appearance are candidates for consideration as an editorial model. It sometimes is an odd personal experience for the model that felt awkward and different growing up and then they are placed in a unique position where they are made into fashion objects of beauty.

Editorial print pictures are artistic and expressive without words, but at the same time are meant to show the garments you are wearing, or whatever image the model is promoting in the best way possible. The poses are much different than catalogue, and the way the body is expressing the story requires a talent. Some may call the talent “acting”, and it’s a modeling skill that only emphasizes the importance of what every good model should possess. The skill of being a chameleon that can change to the mood of the moment easily is much easier to work with versus having the same looks over and over all of the time. When an editorial piece in a magazine is about showing an “edgy” look and a pretty model just wants to show how pretty she is…she has failed. She has failed herself, the photographers, the stylists, the designers, the magazines, and ultimately the consumer who sees this editorial pictorial story and gets the entirely wrong concept from her “pretty” picture. It’s not about how the model is supposed to feel about themselves, but rather doing the job that the model is booked for…a.k.a. whatever the client wants the model to portray (for instance, a.k.a. “edgy looking” model or “retro looking”, etc.). The model should always have a mental note in their mind of the “concept” that the client wants to see and bring it out in front of the camera (or on the runway). Editorial jobs are for the top potential models. If a model feels ugly or weird in what they are modeling for a magazine editorial, they must dig deep and find a way to make the concept exciting or very interesting to match the conceptual idea of what they are modeling.

One job leads to another very quickly when the models start doing editorials, but remember that this stage may not last very long. Enjoy the adventure and any perks because they just don’t happen for most models in their careers. There are so many people all over the world who dream the same dream of being a famous model and their fantasy never gets fulfilled to what they expected. So, when the elite opportunity arrives you should be aware of how fortunate you may be considered in the eyes of other models that may not have “walked in your shoes”.

For any given number of reasons, modeling is not always a highly successful occupation even for the talented person. The work is not always glamorous, either, even though the finished product in a magazine or couture fashion show may appear that way. On a positive note, models can be exposed to some small and very large perks, too. Perks are based on what you may each consider above and beyond what you actually earn in money as an extra bonus that’s not measured on your income tax statement (such as meeting celebrities, attending parties, etc). Your booking rate can increase with the more you become in demand, too. When a model is seen doing editorial spreads in different magazines…they are becoming in demand! Even though the “editorial” rate is low, this popularity branches out into a variety of other options for the model’s career that makes them very, very busy as a professional, working model.

Editorial modeling in a high fashion magazine is a PRIME booking for a model that is serious about having a career in modeling. It is not the type of assignment that you can get in most U.S. cities. New York City is the fashion capital of the United States and it is where the opportunities are for high fashion editorial work. There are other cities internationally that have a lot of editorial work, too, so a model’s willingness and financial ability to relocate and travel is a “must” in order to increase their chances in appearing in any magazine spreads. Not all American models start their high fashion careers in New York City. Many obviously want to, but few get the right opportunity. Agents may recommend that they gain more experience and exposure overseas where there are many magazines and opportunities that may help their career get better established before they venture around New York City. (We’ll discuss more about international modeling, later.)

It takes a special type of model (physically & mentally) to get a grasp on what is required of them in this type of specialty. Rejection is a big part of this career as common as the many, unfulfilled dreams. A model must cope with the reality that they are always being critiqued by many others. For the individuals who have been “good-looking” and socially accepted their entire life, it sometimes is very hard to deal with rejection based upon their “looks”. It’s not easy to take personal criticism, but the better you are at preparing for the worst comments, the better you may be at not being caught off guard. Letting it ruin your day is much better than ruining your career and self-esteem because you will need to have confidence in your skills as a model.

Your personality should adapt as you see more of the modeling industry as an insider. It may sometimes feel as if you are using every bit of your patience and self control in not trying to stick up for yourself to the many different people who may drive you crazy, but always remember what will be best for your success as a model in the long run. Don’t lose control nor lose focus of what your job is as a model and who you represent regarding the client and your modeling agency. Anything that you experience as a model that is unpleasant is usually nothing new to most other models that have worked for a little while, so hang in there and do your best to cope because there will many other models who will not be able to take the heat and drop out of modeling as quickly as they began their dream. It may sometimes be lonely or scary when you’re far away from family and friends, so you may quickly assume more independence without their support over time.

You’ll be facing issues in a modeling career that other people your age may not encounter in their job description such as nudity. In high fashion, there’s no room for too much modesty, either, because the model’s body is stripped down, dressed up, and stripped down again from client to client and garment to garment as part of the fashion business as a live mannequin (a.k.a. models). Your face and your body are part of the package used to promote the fashion story on the runway or in magazines (versus nudity for pornography). There’s a fine line between what is “accepted” in fashion that uses partial nudity versus that what the model is “expected” to portray intimately for pornography. Fine art using nude models or a revealing high fashion designer’s haute couture versus modeling nude on a website or in a pornographic magazine have different standards and is viewed by the industry as such, so be aware from the very beginning of what you are comfortable with.

Often, it’s not just modesty that is sacrificed in a model’s career that causes their parents to be on guard. Models may be placed in many scenarios that they are not familiar with and they need to trust that they are safe when they feel vulnerable. This is where the high fashion model’s agency is the key to managing its’ clients and models. Models change in front of each other and clients sometimes, wear provocative garments, and sometimes are told to act sensually with others (male and female) in front of the camera and on the runway. This is a part of high fashion editorial modeling, too, where modesty can hinder the model’s ability to perform and get the final results.

It appears that when you add in the actual physical requirements of the editorial model you may see the numbers dwindle down to who actually gets an opportunity and succeeds as an editorial model. The female editorial model is anywhere in her teenage years aged 14-19 (on average) and is very, very thin (size 0-2…maybe size 4, depending on trends) and very tall (5’9 -6’0”). She won’t have very large breasts (under 34 C-cup), nor body piercings and tattoos. (*unless approved special circumstances). Add to her body’s physical requirements a “uniquely” beautiful face with interesting features and the average number of qualified females dwindles down even further. Remember, sometimes it’s not a typically “pretty” girl who photographs like a strong, chameleon-like, editorial model…sometimes a “pretty face” just photographs as a “pretty face” and that’s not always interesting in the fashion world.

The standards for male models are somewhat similar, but their age is older (average 18-25) and their height should be 6’0” wearing a size 40 suit with approximately a 34 inch inseam. The male models should be lean, cut, and fit versus having too many bulging muscles that don’t fit in his clothes. He, too, must be where the editorial work is either in the U.S. or internationally. The male model may face his own obstacles when faced with what is expected of him, but there are many shared basics of modeling between female and male models relating to the industry and facing rejection.

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Live Fashion Modeling

There are many types of bookings (jobs) that models may have the opportunity to do.  This description is for models that work LIVE (In-Person) for FASHION-related bookings.

Live Fashion Modeling


“Live Fashion Modeling” refers to the model that is viewed “in-person” as they show or demonstrate the wide range of garments and accessories related to the fashion industry. The model is "in-person" versus a model that is only in a photographic print. The models who are involved with live fashion modeling work in a variety of settings where the model is participating in promoting a “fashion-related” aspect of modeling. Fashion versus a non-fashion booking is the key to this type of modeling. The following are some instances of where a model can work by bringing “life” to the fashion that they are wearing either for the clients who hire them or the consumers who are viewing them. (*It is always important to remember who is hiring the model and keeping in mind their view of how they want to be represented by the model.)



Runway Fashion Modeling: (a.k.a. Runway Modeling)

Think of “fashion shows” where you see models on the runway…that is one of the kinds of modeling that is used to show “fashions” (not always high fashion, though) to groups of people. It can range from a runway show to a group of consumers at the local mall, or even a special event for an organization. At the high end of “fashion” is where the seasonal runway shows occur all over the world showing off the fashion designs of many popular and new designers. “Haute Couture” is the French word for high fashion (the very unique, expensive & one-of-a kind garments) and “Ready to Wear” is a term used for garments made for mass production (factory made) and each will have separate showings and types of models, too, depending on the designer or retail establishment, etc.





Informal Fashion Modeling: (a.k.a. Floor Modeling or In-Store Modeling)

Informal modeling has a more casual atmosphere such as strolling through a specialized department store and getting up closer to the store’s patrons. The consumer may have a closer inspection of what the garment looks like “off the hanger” and on a “live” person versus a store mannequin. This is another area where personality is important because that model is representing the store, too, as well as presenting her outfit. Don’t let the name “Informal Modeling” be taken lightly as “easy” or “not as important” because as with all modeling jobs there are varying degrees of personal conduct that should be handled professionally. Also, some people may refer to “informal modeling” as “floor modeling”. (Once again, depending on who you are communicating with is where you may hear different terminology, so that’s why it sure doesn’t hurt to familiarize yourself with the model’s glossary.)



Showroom Fashion Modeling:

A “showroom” is a place that can be used by the manufacturer or designer to display garments to the potential “buyers”. Models are used to show the fashions and some may even work full-time exclusively at this kind of modeling job. It’s not unheard of for a full-time showroom model to have other tasks that they perform in the office, too, so occasionally getting coffee, answering phones, etc. may be part of your job description.



“Salon” or “House” Fashion Modeling:

This category of modeling refers to models who work for “creative and artistic individuals” like designers, fashion stylists, hairstylists, etc. who experiment with new looks to show to customers. For example, a fashion designer’s “house model” is the model who the designer works with through the process of their “creation”. The model may participate in their special private collection events, too, as well as travel with them for trunk shows.



Fit Fashion Modeling: (not to be confused with the word “fitness”)

This model type is essentially an “interactive mannequin”. A good fit model must not fluctuate in size and they must stay consistent in their measurements because they are the models that a garment’s sizing pattern is made in the initial “sample” process. For example:  A designer may use a size 6 female model (or perhaps a size 40 male model) as the initial fit model. From that one size all other sizes are adjusted accordingly later in the process. Different size fit models for petites, tall, plus-size, etc. come into the process down the line, too. Did you ever wonder why the same size can run larger or smaller depending on different designer labels? Even though there may be “somewhat” universal sizes that designers use to make garments, consider it a range dependent upon the fit model that the designer uses to tailor the clothes on.

A fit model usually has some input when asked upon by the designer for their input to the “fit” of the garment. Talented fit models that have some fashion background or knowledge about fashion can offer their honest opinions when asked about how the garment feels on them, how well it fits on their body with movement, etc .


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Introduction to the Types of Modeling

Introduction to the Types of Modeling  (Sorry about the length, but before I discuss the different types of models that are out there...there's a professional factor that they should all have in common)



Fortunately, for all of the aspiring models in the world, there are many different “TYPES” of modeling. The jobs are there, but how do you know which types of modeling that you are right for? The competition can be fierce and the industry standards confusing to who is “model material”. You may be wondering how you can learn more about each type of modeling that you are interested in. This is part of your homework. Modeling is a career and should be treated as such by taking the steps that is expected of others training for other careers. There will be individuals in society who think that modeling is an easy job that just comes naturally. Modeling is anything but natural... It's just meant to look that way. As you read through the different types of modeling categories you will see that no two jobs are exactly the same, but once you know what is expected of you there's a better chance that you will succeed versus being totally unprepared.

Before you get started with your career, strive for an advantage of saving some time and money from making some common mistakes. Researching the modeling industry can be fascinating to both the business orientated individuals and to the artistically inclined people. Due to its’ diverse opportunities around the world, there are many places to model, too. There are basic ways to start in modeling schools, but are they right for you and your situation? Anyone who is considering a career as a professional model should be aware of the different TYPES of modeling that are available, as well as the general requirements and locations of each type. There are even opportunities to model as a “hobby” for those who don’t want to make a career commitment.

Regardless of the type of modeling that you may do, there should be absolutely no excuse for not “acting” professional whether or not it’s your primary career. Even if you master the art and technique of modeling, you’ll be the “package deal” if you know how to communicate with others. If you don’t work on all aspects of being a professional model, you may end up losing some opportunities that could have lead to even more successful bookings. There are many potential jobs out there for models that are willing to work at being versatile. The larger percentage of available work may appear highly unglamorous, though, versus the jobs that models strive for. Pros and cons go hand in hand with the modeling industry, but it can be a great life- learning experience if you are a positive, innovative person.

Promoting yourself as a model is more than just “looking like a model”, so learn the skills and increase your knowledge about your chosen profession. You will gain a much better chance of standing out with clients and agents as well as being respected and working more. Dependability is near the top of the list of what they want too, because so many others will rely on your ability to show up on time and perform your expected role. The client’s money and reputation are on the line, as well as yours and the modeling agency, so treat every job with high importance and offer them your respect and interest.

Due to a little lack of experience (and sometimes age), some young and new models can be absolutely clueless to how to interact among professional (and sometimes “not-so-professional”) adults. How would most young, aspiring models know about the reality of the business of modeling without learning? It should not be assumed that your behavior and attitude doesn’t matter as much as your “look” or “specialty” when it comes to success as a model. Some clients will talk about the model right in front of them as if they’re not there and it isn’t always wonderful to hear. Sometimes the client will be polite and smile, but make poor comments about the model after they leave. This can be misleading to the model, but that’s just the way some can be. A model is an open target for public judgment, too. There are so many physical, emotional, financial, and personal challenges that models face from “day one” of their journey into modeling that can place a burden on being “professional” even when they probably feel like screaming (or crying), but self-control plays a large, respectable part in how you handle the bad days or “nasty” people when they arrive…and they will arrive.

In general, make a positive rule to yourself that you will act professional and be respectful to the many people that you will deal with, and accept that there will be others that may NOT follow that same rule. (That’s their problem! Keep your cool.) You can only be responsible for your own career and how you behave. So, the better that you are at not being defensive or overly sensitive to criticism will enhance your own ability to learn from others and be easier to work with. Some people may even be arrogant and mean in the way that they communicate with you, so it can take self-control and practice to cut through the personal insults in order to get the job done as a professional. Whether you are age 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, etc. you will deal with some insensitive human beings, but always dignify yourself in not following that lead to lose your self-control, especially if you are the model.

The least amount said about most insults lets it become less validated to others. But, if it’s meant as honest, constructive criticism then remain attentive and open minded that you may have something to learn from this uncomfortable situation. Often, the comment may be meant as constructive criticism, but the way it may be said or “heard” by the model is another story. (*And if you ever become the one who is placed in the position to make critique on others…remember to use a little compassion along with your honesty, so that you don’t become one of those people who border being rude, uncaring, and arrogant just to prove that they’re in control. Pompous snobbery is very un-cool and not flattering. Professionalism and good manners should apply to everyone. You don’t have to follow in the stereo-type of previous divas nor modeling industry gurus past negative attitudes.)

There are scenarios for each “type” of modeling where models need patience and a “stronger-than-normal” self-esteem because they are placed on a different level of what is expected of them versus most other average jobs and careers outside of modeling. Can you imagine working in a career where you are “allowed” to be constantly critiqued by many about how you look, what you weigh, how old are you, etc??? Most people would feel harassed (& quit or sue), but is the model a super-hero when it comes to criticism? Of course not, they just practice taking it, and hopefully don’t let it destroy their self-esteem. Just because the industry professionals have their own opinions that may not benefit you in getting booked by them doesn’t mean that there’s something not beautiful about you. It certainly doesn’t mean that you won’t ever get booked for another client that you are more compatible with. Not everyone can be a “Cover Girl” or “Victoria’s Secret”, etc. type of model. There is so much competition in modeling and the standards are higher and usually difficult to achieve and maintain, so keep your MIND focused and your BODY fit in order to maintain the balance no matter what type of modeling that you are doing.

To be familiar with the different types of modeling can enhance your chances of making better decisions about the types that you are willing (or NOT willing) to do, too. You may gain a more realistic appreciation of the demands that models can be subjected to and face in the process of their jobs. It’s not as easy as some may think. Of course, a professional model should make it appear effortless, though, to the public! “Good Acting” comes in handy when you’re not the best, yet, so keep up the effort even if you’re feeling less than confident! In every job and type of modeling, use your ears to “listen” to what is wanted, and use your skills and creativity to show what the client wants to see from you and stand out to them. Make the client WISH they had MORE MONEY to offer you and request you again the next time! (LOL) The most seasoned, successful models know that even they have to keep up that effort to remain in such a fickle business like modeling.

The location of where you live, your height, your age, your measurements, your look, your personality, fashion and commercial trends, your financial status, and your knowledge of the modeling industry can affect the opportunities that you are exposed to and discover when you are in the business of modeling. These are very important factors that can determine whether or not “hobby” modeling leads into a longer, professional career as a model. Endurance is needed in modeling. Give it some TIME to get established as a model. There are also many other “subjective” factors that can determine whether or not you become successful as a model, too, such as the people who are hiring models, the people at the agencies working for you, or timing and places of other personal circumstances that effect the choices that you make in your career.

One giant thing that you should be in control of other than the obvious “physical grooming” is your PERSONALITY. Yes, always be professional, but don’t be a boring “robot” just going through the motions. Sometimes it may feel like you are just “going through the motions” when you are modeling, but this is where your attitude, personality, and temperament can shine you through to the next level of modeling where you are known to have a good reputation and act like a PRO. Being persistent without being annoying is a fine line, too, when dealing with very busy individuals, so use your brain and think things through before you have “regrets” afterwards. If individuals are acting annoyed with you, then take a step back and think of how you can quickly save your reputation or learn what not to do, again. Don’t “argue” to defend yourself, nor make a scene that makes you remembered as “THAT” model that shouldn’t even be a model. There are tactful ways of making a point…especially if you keep a smile or positive expression on your face and through your body language. This applies to EVERY type of modeling. Some new models are under the false impression that they will be supermodels just because they may be pretty with nice bodies, but there are more things that can be critiqued about a model than just how they look in person or in print, so the model’s personality plays a HUGE factor in completing your total package and how you are remembered.



For most, high fashion modeling is highly sought after, but can be “non-existent” and “un-attainable” even for the most beautiful, fit people for any given number of reasons. There are stunning and unique looks on both males and females, but the “package” of being a model is much harder to attain when the individual doesn’t recognize that they need to be ready for a diverse occupation and the standards that come with it. AND, for the percentage of models that get exposed to high fashion experiences, it may only be a very short-lived experience, too. The modeling industry requires such high standards that it becomes impossible to move ahead without some sort of knowledge and acceptance of what is expected of you. Being open to new experiences with an excitement that carries itself to the client, photographers, modeling agencies, etc. really can make a huge difference in the overall job experience. For those who know about the various types of modeling opportunities that exist in other areas, too, outside of high fashion, their career can span over a decent amount of time with extended income potential.



When it comes to how much MONEY a model can make (a.k.a. Income), it may be natural for most to fill their imaginations with dreamy, self-indulgent pictures of wealth and fame. It helps to visualize where you think you may want to be, but just remember that it also helps to stay realistic to what you have to do, where you have to be, and who you have to be affiliated with in order to be in the running with the industry’s top models. There are sacrifices, too, that you may endure that other people your age (or related to you) may not face or even understand about your modeling career. So, money is out there to be earned, but a lot of it’s not as glamorous as many would visualize and sometimes the opportunities are far and few in between.

That’s why we’ll discuss the many TYPES of modeling that’s out there. The AVERAGE MODEL’S pay range can depend on many factors, too, ranging from earning nothing (that’s right…no money) to thousands of dollars. There’s a BIG gap in that range, yes, but there are some interesting and important factors that the industry uses to rate how much a model will get paid. There are also expenses that may be deducted from model’s earnings, as well as some basic costs in their development and maintenance of career. It also matters about the cost of living where you are modeling to pay your bills or share expenses with roommates. (We’ll discuss more about development, money management, model’s rates, and low paying “prestige” jobs later.)

A new model, in theory, is similar to an artist’s blank canvas that develops over time. So, really, no two models are exactly the same, nor will their career paths lead to the exact same success or failure with particular “types” of clients and agencies. There are models that may have strong, diverse, photogenic qualities, but they are not tall enough to be a high fashion runway model in New York City, nor are they groomed or well versed at any public “speaking” modeling assignment. Then there are the beautiful people who aren’t photogenic (do not photograph very well or bring any life in front of the camera), but they have the ability to confidently talk in public. Not all models are printed models. There’s still hope for the inexperienced, but it takes effort, persistence, and the knowledge of where the model may need extra help in order to excel. Good, old-fashioned PRACTICE goes a long way versus just thinking that it should just come naturally. It may come more natural with experience, but until then…just keep practicing (especially posing in front of a mirror to be aware of your expressions or try having conversations with new people to make yourself more comfortable at that experience so it becomes more effortless).

An “aspiring model” is somewhat of a general term that describes a select group of individuals new to the business that may have some common goals in being a successful, well-known model. The statistics can be further against the odds if a model limits themselves to only opportunities that they are not truly suited for or in the wrong geographical location. It can also be a humbling experience to be reminded that you’re not perfect or that there’s someone else considered “better suited” for a job than you! (That can be painful when that happens! Good lesson, just a bad day for your self-esteem!) Move forward and keep up every realistic effort in taking care of having healthy habits that keep your mind and body in TOP shape no matter what type of modeling you are doing. If you are not comfortable with your body…it will show. If you’re not comfortable with being in front of a camera…it will show. If you have excess weight on your body…it will show. Generally speaking, almost EVERYTHING matters and that’s why modeling can take a toll on self-esteem. Weight control, body size and proportion, skin, nail, and hair care, wardrobe, etc…we’ll discuss how models must have control of their physical appearance for every type of modeling, later. So, the standards that models must meet to work in the fashion industry do trickle down in trends that people see in magazines and catalogs…then society feels they need to meet some of those standards, too. The controversy of models being too thin, having plastic surgery, or society comparing themselves to retouched pictures in magazines reaches girls and women of all ages.

As for FAME, success in “earning” some good money as a model is more likely than actually being “well known”, too. Think of how many models’ names that you know versus how many that you don’t. Just because you don’t know their name doesn’t mean that they are not considered successful by financial standards as a career model by their agency. Some types of modeling are truly rare opportunities, so in such a competitive and subjective industry, it can help the model to become familiar with realistic expectations of how the “types” are broken down into divisions such as “fashion” or “commercial”. Some models feel that when someone refers to them as “commercial”, it is meant as an insult to them personally, or a term that they can’t figure out and leaves them frustrated. The ideal situation is when a model can be considered for both, but that’s not always the case.

Models are hired for many diverse jobs not limited to only fashion, but, also commercially to promote a product, service, or whatever “creative concept” a client may be marketing to the consumer. This is a BIG business. Because there are so many different types of clients who hire models, it’s in a model’s best interest to be familiar with what’s out there and available. Each TYPE of modeling has different requirements and some particular industry standards that new models may not know about. It’s not likely that you can get ALL the answers if you just don’t know what you should be asking about.

Yes, models will learn many things as they grow in their career, but wouldn’t you prefer to know a little about what you want to do and what’s expected from you? Some potential models who are just starting out tend to assume that the “work” and “opportunities” will just come to them because they’re a model, so they remain passive and lose some really promising opportunities to models who have that special ability to do their research and get to know people that may potentially help them. The transition for some younger models (such as teenagers) to be able to communicate with adults and professionals within the modeling industry usually takes a little time and practice, but the effort must never stop because sometimes the communication barrier can put a strain on the model’s career (especially if they don’t understand how dependable they must strive to be). Within all of the different types of modeling there must be professionalism and communication, so an open mind is needed to distinguish how the model can interact with others and give the client their best attempt at making the experience a success.

Vulnerability in Modeling (Part 2)

People have their dreams of modeling, and sometimes they’re really not considering just how much work it actually takes to succeed and make a living financially. Some models just lack the initial motivation to get basic skills to pursue their goals and expect opportunities to just "happen".  Others who want to be a model and realize how many factors are involved may find themselves in positions where they feel vulnerable, too.  They may come across people who claim that they can "help" them break into the modeling industry, but there's always something involved like a FEE or some sort of opportunity where they just want the models clothes to come off for "photographic testing". 

There are so many different factors that contribute to whether a model will "legitimately" need to pay a fee for photographic testing...and there are models who have no problem just whipping off their clothes.  NOT ALL MODELS NEED TO POSE NUDE OR SEMI-NUDE IF THEY DON'T WANT TO.  There may be legitimate (artistic, commercial, or high fashion) occasions where there may be some nudity involved, but it's booked professionally.  Then there are the creepy people & scams within the modeling industry from individuals pretending to be photographers, videographers, scouts, agents, clients, etc. that claim they are scouting for famous names that you may have heard of...BEWARE.  If it sounds too good to be true...it probably isn't true.  NOTE:  Some photographers may be legitimately starting out, too, so you need to recognize the differences between shady situations and authentic career-building opportunities. There are many precautions a model can take to stay safer when approached with opportunities...especially if it's NOT through a modeling agency.

I'll be talking about "Tips on Safety" and what fees are "normal" within the modeling industry for models in a future blog, but for now there are many affordable books that you can read that can assist you with many questions on these topics.

Here are just a few, but there are many more out there...

How to Enter the Business of Commercial Modeling and Acting...Without Get ting Ripped Off!

The Glam Scam: Successfully Avoiding the Casting Couch and Other Talent and Modeling Scams

Wilhelmina Guide to Modeling

The Complete Idiot's Guide to Being a Model, 2nd Edition

Vulnerability in Modeling (Part 1)

VULNERABILITY (Part 1)


I want to briefly make note regarding my motivation for writing information for models. I recognize that many girls, boys, women, and men have the secret dream to be a model. They try and picture themselves in magazines and on the runway, and I have always empathized with people in vulnerable positions of not knowing how to get there or how to avoid costly mistakes (dangerous situations, too)!

Anyone who wants a career in modeling can be “vulnerable” if they are NOT educated to how the modeling industry “basically” works. “Vulnerable” is meant to be an overall word describing the model’s state of being able to process their realistic chances for success or fail at the judgment of others. There are different degrees of where certain models are actually vulnerable, too, so this can vary.

Making the right decisions can be based upon your knowledge of all the options and what is expected. Smart models create “power” to put up with an industry that will break most others! Whether it be an emotional disappointment of not getting a certain job, or a harsh blow to a model‘s self-esteem from being critiqued from head to toe in a negative manner…a model can feel vulnerable! Sometimes, just lacking some small details can make or break whether a model gets the right job (or representation) that they want and that IS relevant to being vulnerable.

A potential model can fail before they even have really began, and the chance to succeed can deteriorate quickly if you‘re not prepared to learn and adapt quickly. Sometimes there aren’t any second chances or do-over’s!  Let’s make you LESS vulnerable by avoiding some basic mistakes that may arise! Don’t be scared to model because this isn’t brain surgery! You should be able to get your adrenaline flowing in your body without falling apart from “fear” of failure. You WILL learn from failure, too, so don’t give up wanting to be a model just because you make initial goofs. Even if you think that there isn’t a second chance, defy the odds and prove everyone wrong. We’ll talk about that later...!

A Little History of Modeling

A few weekends ago, I took a late afternoon trip to Newport, RI.  While I was there, I wanted to show my children the different sites, so how could I not show them the mansions?  They are a site to see for anyone who has an imagination of what it must have been like for the society people who had the luxury of living such a lifestyle.  A random thought while I was there gave me an idea to share some modeling and fashion history that I had come across in my research.

Imagine if the profession of modeling never existed. Hmmm…That would be incredibly hard to picture! We are just so used to visualizing models promoting fashion, products, services, events, etc! In general, sometimes we overlook the importance of our history while we live and deal with issues in the present. For the sake of being a model as a career, it can only enhance your credentials if you really learn some important names in the modeling and fashion industry (and save yourself some embarrassment, too). Most of those names will be of well known fashion designers, models, photographers, magazines, and modeling agencies, but there is a transition in history from where the fashion model began versus where they are now.

Briefly, there is a very interesting history of the modeling industry and if you ever want to really read more about it, it may help you understand how modeling truly evolved. For instance, we’d probably still be looking at “dummies” (a.k.a. mannequins) wearing designer’s fashions if it weren’t for Charles Worth (1825-1895). In the mid-1800’s, Charles Worth showed innovation in business and design, as well as was the first to use “real people” as models. He actually fell in love and married one of his models, Marie Vernet Worth, and used her as his inspiration. He is known as the founder of “high fashion” (a.k.a. haute couture). That really changed how designers showcased their fashions. (Before that, even dolls were used in miniature versions of fashions throughout Europe to market and sell their styles. Clothing designer Rose Bertin was famous for that!)

The French upper class had the economic means of purchasing fashionable, luxury goods, so Charles Worth also utilized his talents as a designer and dress-maker in many ways like introducing the concept of producing his garments in multiples of his latest creations. This was not the way things had been done, because things were not “ready-made” before that time. Seasonal collections came to be known during this period, too, because Worth was also the first designer to organize and show an entire collection of clothes in advance. He was also the first designer to place a tag with his name signature in every fashion he made.

Fashion spread from Europe to all over the world to places like the United States. Newport, RI was just one of the places for the rich to live out their fashionable lifestyles entertaining in America in the lavish mansions of that period. Among the American women who frequently patronized Worth’s shop in later years were the Astors, Carnegies, Rockefellers, and Vanderbilts. While many of Worth's clients would spend upwards of $10,000 a year on their wardrobes, still others were willing to spend that same sum on a single ball gown. In producing the 6,000 to 7,000 gowns and 4,000 outer garments he designed and sold each year, Worth used the most beautiful fabrics he could find, most from France. It was a reflection of the class of people in that society to have their garments from Paris. The elite women would change their clothes a few times a day depending on the social setting, meal, party, or receiving of guests, etc…and such began the fashion rule, “never wear the same thing twice”. That’s a lot of clothes, and a lot of money, and they were shipped in trunks from Paris to meet the demand!

Many people may be surprised to hear that the center of the garment industry in the U.S. rose in Chicago, Illinois. Most would assume it was New York City, but that came in time. The very first fashion show was in 1914 called “The Greatest Style Show in the World“. Picture 100 models with an audience of approximately 5000 people. It was filmed and then shown all over in the movie cinemas. Modeling had changed from informal modeling using “shop girls” and “actresses” to a socially more acceptable career for “attractive, well-bred” women. The standard had started to change when French designer, Jean Patou, had the assistance of Vogue magazine to do a model search for those special women.

Through this period have come about some of the most memorable images in the history of fashion photography that represents the time in which they were made. Before that, the eighteenth century had just hand-colored images of fashionable clothes printed in magazines. Paris was at that time a center for the production of such magazines, many of which were exported. Enter the age of fashion photography! Photographers such as Baron de Meyer (1868 - 1946), Edward Jean Steichen (1879-1973),George Hoyningen-Huene (1900 - 1968), Horst P Horst (born 1906) , Cecil Beaton (1904 - 1980) Norman Parkinson, (born in 1913), Lillian Bassman, Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Richard Avedon, Erwin Blumenfeld (1897-1969), David Bailey, Jean Loup Sieff (born 1933) pioneered the way for today’s fashion photographer and their models in our digital era.

Search Amazon.com for fashion history

Modeling Industry Terms and Definitions

Today I wanted to blog about some questions that people have been asking me about "terminology" used in modeling & acting.  Here is a long list...and there's even more terms if we include INTERNET TERMINOLOGY in modeling (maybe another day...), but all models and actors should know these basic, helpful terms.  

Here are just some of the many industry terms with definitions used by model & talent management companies, casting directors, actors, models and many others in the acting and modeling industry.

AEA:  Actor's Equity, union for stage and legit

ADVERTISING AGENCY:  Creates advertising campaigns for clients, selects models

AFTRA:  American Federation of Television and Radio Artists, union for all TV performers

AGENT, AGENCY:  Third party negotiator, receives percentage fee of bookings; could be an individual person or a company

ART DIRECTOR:  Artist who creates layout for ads, illustrates model's poses

BACKDROP:  Background used in a photographer's studio

BLOCKING:  The actual physical movements by actors in any scene

BLOW UP:  Enlargement photo from a negative or slide

BOOK (verb):  To secure an assignment

BOOK (noun):  Portfolio of pictures and tear sheets 

BOOKER:  Person at agency who sets appointments for models

BOOKING:  Specific job assignment

BOOK OUT:  When you tell your agency that you are unavailable to work for certain day(s), for example, a vacation or another job

BREAKDOWN SERVICE:  A professional listing available only to agencies that lists movies, film, TV, and stage projects with what types of actors are being cast

BUYER:  Retail store employee who purchases clothing from the manufacturer; models show the line of clothing to store buyers

BUYOUT:  Advance payment for future use of a print ad or a commercial for a specific period of time

CALL:  Appointment

CALL BACK:   Second interview after go∫see/audition which means they are narrowing down the selection and they are considering you

CALL TIME:  Actual time you are due on set

CASTING:  Choosing models/actors for a specific job

CASTING DIRECTOR:  Selects suitable models to represent the comp or story board

CANCELLATION:  24 hour notice before booking is to begin or money is due agency and talent

CATALOG MODELING:  Posing for mail order items for major retailers

CATTLE CALL:  Several agencies send many models of the same general type to a casting session

CLIENT:  Company who hires the ad agency, pays the model's fee

COLD READING:  A script that you are reading for the first time in front of the client, without time to memorize the lines

COLLECTION:  Group of coordinated clothes being shown by a designer

COMMENTARY:  Script used to describe clothes for a fashion show

COMMERCIAL:  Promotional advertisement on TV, radio or other media

COMMISSION:  A percentage of model's fee required as payment to agency

COMPOSITE CARD, COMP CARD, CARD, ZED CARD:  Card with 3 to 5 photos of model including their height, eye and hair color, and size information to promote and distribute to prospective clients to show what model looks like.

CONTACT SHEET:   Proofs of black and white film used to determine best shots

COPY:  Written words to be spoken on a commercial

CREATIVE DIRECTOR:  Ad agency employee who determines the model type

DEMONSTRATOR:  Model who shows use of product at a trade show or store

DESIGNER:   Person who creates the idea for a garment

DRESSER:  Helps models dress backstage for fashion shows

EXTRA:  Acting job where the actor has no speaking lines, but stands in the background and adds to the atmosphere of a scene

FADS:  An overdone fashion; passing craze

FASHION COORDINATOR:  Puts fashion show outfits together in retail stores

FASHION TRENDS:  Gradual changes in fashion styles

FEES:  Amount of money per hour

FIT MODELING:  Modeling the original sample garment to test for sizing. Clients use a model whose measurements match the sample size exactly

FITTING:  Trying on clothes to determine fit and style...usually before a fashion show

FLIPPER:  False teeth used for young children to temporarily fill in for lost teeth

FORMAL FASHION SHOW, RUNWAY SHOW:  Invited audience, stage, music; models walk down runway to show designer clothing

FREELANCE:  Modeling for many clients without agency representation

FULL LENGTH SHOT:  Head to toe photograph

GO-SEE:  a job interview, model meets a client and shows portfolio

HAIR STYLIST:  works on hair changes

HEADSHOT:  8 x 10 size photo of head and shoulders 

HEADSHEET:  agency sheet, poster, or book of models they represent that goes to prospective clients

HIGH FASHION:  extreme, chic, sophisticated model type

HOLD:  when the agency puts you "on hold" for a job, it means the client is seriously considering you and wants you to keep the time available for them first (if anything else comes up for that time, you must notify the agency before accepting another job)

ILLUSTRATION/Artist's MODEL:  poses for artists

INDUSTRIAL:  non broadcast production, often educational or sales films tapes

INFORMAL FASHION SHOW:  in stores or restaurants, walk around, no runway

JUNIOR MODEL:  youthful type, animated

LINES:  script, words

LINE UP:   position of model and garment in a fashion show

LOCATION:  assignment site outside the studio

LOUPE:  small magnifying glass to see slides and contact sheet images eight times larger

MAKEUP ARTIST:  applies and changes makeup for photo sessions

MARKET, JOB MARKET:  any location where there is a lot of work

MARKET WEEK:  4 - 6 times per year when seasonal clothing lines are shown to buyers

MODEL BAG:  a large tote in which you carry all your makeup and working essentials

MODEL RELEASE:  contract in which the model gives permission to use the photo as the client specifies

MODEL AGENCY:  represents model for employment and receives a percentage of the bookings

MONOLOGUE:  a scene performed by one person for a client, that reflects a particular mood and demonstrates your acting talent

MOOD:  the feeling a model projects to suit the specific assignment

OPEN CALL:  casting when the client sees all models suitable for the type requested

PORTFOLIO:   select photos in a vinyl or leather casebook which show the model at his/her photogenic best and samples of their work (tear sheets)

PRINCIPAL:  main performer in the foreground

PRINT:  a photograph printed in newspaper or magazine form

PRINTWORK:  photography taken for catalog and mail order, books, brochures, ads for magazines or newspapers, magazine covers, commercial photography for household products, business products and services, glamour products

PRODUCER:  person responsible for the day-to-day decision-making on a production

PRODUCT CONFLICT:  representing competitive products...this is to be avoided

PRODUCTION COMPANY:  produces video for viewing

PROMOTION:  publicity to advance a product, service or person

PROOF:  intermediate stage of photo development from which you can chose best poses

PUBLIC RELATIONS:  creating an image of a product or service in the eyes of the public

RATES:  fees charged by the model

RELEASE:  same as a MODEL RELEASE

RESIDUALS:  additional money paid when a piece runs in repeat, rates dictated by the unions

ROUNDS:  calling on prospective clients for photography and television

RUNWAY:  a narrow raised platform on which the model shows the clothing

SAG:  Screen Actors Guild, union for TV and film performers

SAMPLE:  piece of clothing from a line, one of a kind

SCALE WAGE:  minimum wage set by the unions

SCOUT:  to look for prospective models from other, smaller agencies, other locations, or even in the mall or while on the beaches; finding model potential in a crowd

SET:  arrangement of props and furniture in a TV or photo studio

SHOOT:  photo session

SHOWROOM WORK:  manufacturer's showcase of a clothing line to buyers using live models when the seasonal clothing designs are being shown

SIGN-IN SHEET:  on cattle calls, lists the order in which each model arrived to audition

SLATE:  to state your name on camera before your commercial audition

SPEC SHOT:  photographer's idea of a comp which he/she hopes to sell to the client

SPOKESPERSON:  model chosen to explain the features of a product/service

STAGE PARENT:  an adult who pushes and watches too closely over a child performer, gets in the way of the shoot

STATS:  statistical information of a model, including measurements, size, height, etc.

STOCK PHOTOGRAPHER:  one whose work is not for a specific client or job, but whose photos get listed in a general catalog by number for any client to select (for example... a photo of a woman holding a briefcase or of a male model wearing a business suit)

STORYBOARD:  artwork that shows each scene of a commercial

STROBE:  light unit used by a photographer

STYLIST:  coordinates the fashions and accessories, checks fit of clothing, visual scene

TEARSHEET:  copy of a print ad that the model keeps in the portfolio as proof of work

TELEPROMPTER:  TV-like screen that displays the cue card words

TESTIMONIAL:  celebrity declaration to the value of a product/service; improvisational endorsement of a product or service that the actor has officially tested, used and approved

TEST SHOTS, TEST PHOTOGRAPHY:  free or low cost photos used to build a beginning portfolio

TRADES, TRADE PAPERS:  trade publications such as Variety, Backstage, NY Casting, Actor's Resource Network, Ross Reports, Drama-Logue, Billboard, Hollywood Reporter

TRADE SHOWS:  industry promotional display of products/services usually in a hotel or convention center

TRANSPARENCIES:  the slide forms of a photograph

TRUNK SHOW:  informal modeling of one specific designer line, usually in a store or small boutique

USAGE:  additional fees for higher exposure, like a billboard or national use

U-5, UNDER-5:  in AFTRA contracts, a speaking role having 5 lines or less

VOICEOVER:  background voices for radio or video recorded separately in a recording studio and dubbed onto visual

VOUCHER:  three piece form with a model release on which client acknowledges hours worked by the model, agency copy used to bill and get paid

WEATHER PERMIT:  a location job that is dependent on fair weather, may be canceled the day before or that morning

1/2 SHOTS:  photo from waist to head

3/4 SHOTS: photo from head to mid thigh

Modeling Agency Role

The Modeling Agency


Pardon the length of this blog, but there is no one "simple" description to begin telling you about the role of a modeling agency. The easiest comparison is to the role of a specialized employment agency. Their specialty is finding jobs for models (a.k.a. talent) and finding models for jobs (a.k.a. clients). This may sound basically easy, but it’s in your best professional interest to learn the role that a modeling agency plays in this industry & how it may or may not work for your situation. Don’t forget about looking at the “Big Picture” of how it affects all of the agency’s models, employees, and their clients.

There are literally hundreds of reputable modeling agencies in the United States. In most states these agencies are governed by laws of their state and must be licensed as a private employment agency. Even their employees working in their agency may be required to be licensed, too. This is best for your overall personal and business protection. You should find out your state’s requirements because they certainly vary from state to state.  There are standards that the agency must submit to in these cases such as being bonded, business background and financial checks, and copies of forms and contracts that will be utilized by the agency. This manner of screening also assists in weeding out some of people involved in scams and poor moral business practices that just keep changing business names to stay ahead of their shady pasts.

Another requirement for an agency needing a license is if it is in the business of working with unions like SAG (Screen Actor’s Guild www. .com) and AFTRA (American Federation of Radio and Television Artists www. com). These are the industry standards for models and actors, and an agency will be franchised as such usually quite clearly. There are other associations such as Better Business Bureau (www.bbb.com), that can be a resource for seeing if there have been a lot of complaints and unsettled disputes with an agency. These sources can give you a general idea to whether or not this agency is reputable in the way it is accountable to its business practices.

Now that I’ve stated only an initial prerequisite to look into and/or understand, here’s the next dimension to appreciate. Where is the agency? What is that city’s “market”? For example, how many and what kinds of clients are in its market? Are they Fashion clients? Are they Commercial clients? The market is a reflection of the kind of work that an agency may be likely to offer its models. (Current trends for markets throughout the United States and International markets and the role your modeling agency can play in your diverse representation is also what a model needs to consider.)

A modeling agency can range from very small to very large, and even the types of models that an agency specializes in representing can be just as unique, so with that said, they know what they are looking for. People outside of this industry may think, “How hard is it to find a model?” Well, there are many ways that agencies see potential models, but they evaluate a model’s potential dependent upon how much money they anticipate that model earning while at their agency. The agency knows who their clients tend to be, and how many similar models they may have, so it’s a matter of supply and demand.

All modeling agencies have some form of interviewing and evaluating new models, so you can easily find out first by calling and asking what their procedure is for accepting new models (ex. Will they be holding any “Open Calls”?  Do they want you to just send a picture? etc.). There’s usually a time when the agency opens its doors for anyone to come in to be considered for representation. Most agencies will specify when they hold their open calls, or where you can send some snapshots or composite cards of yourself if you live out of their area. There are many other ways that agents can see new models and talent, too, such as referrals from scouts, other models, photographers, modeling conventions, modeling schools, pageants, modeling agencies from other cities, websites, and even clients. Some scouts are actually employed by a specific agency that knows what qualifications that their agency is looking for versus an independent scout that is able to receive a finder’s fee (and may even be eligible for a percentage of the model’s future earnings). Not every “discovery” is compensated by money, so it depends on the relationship of their association to the agency.

A modeling agency must be very selective to whom they represent. They may see hundreds of models, but there are industry standards that the agency must meet in order to fill their client’s needs. This is where your “look”, height, size, gender, experience and “market” are considered. The model is part of a group of individuals that work as a team in getting the job done, but there is usually more at stake financially for a client (and agency) when it comes down to either hiring the right model or going through the process of rejecting them. Business is business. Remember, an agency takes a commission out of the model’s rate for getting them the job, and they get a fee from the client, too, because they found them the model…(a.k.a. employment agency). Clients are the ones who select the model, so it’s in the agent’s best interest to find the right models because it’s a win-win situation for everyone.

As much as agents are always looking for new talent, there will be different standards of how much one-on-one training will be offered to the models it represents. It is in an agency’s best interest to make sure that their models that they are sending out on different jobs are up to par on the most basic requirements needed as a model. Agents can face a public relations nightmare (a.k.a. professional embarrassment) when one of their models represents their agency poorly. Some agencies may have a general manual that they hand out to all of their models that list their policies and standards that they want their models to follow.
It may offer more specific information, but there is a point that an agency may refer new models for photographic testing with certain photographers to further evaluate their abilities in front of a camera. Pictures are a tool that models and agencies use to market themselves, so this is part of the early process.

· A model’s progress is watched and changes may be suggested by the agents for the model to follow such as losing weight, firming up (losing inches), adjusting hair style or color, improving personality, improving runway walk, and working on becoming more versatile to meet different client’s demands in front of the camera, on the runway, or at go-sees (interviews). Some of these things models can practice on their own in front of a mirror, but agencies may be able to ease the transition properly by having different individuals available to give models extra specialized training (usually at the model’s expense).

For instance, acting classes can help improve self-expression in front of a camera, on the runway, and auditioning for commercials & film, etc. Having a runway class helps a model be critiqued in ways that a model may not be personally aware of and able to practice and improve. Models may be referred to consultants or classes where makeup artists demonstrate the many different applications of makeup used in the industry and basic skin care, while hairstylists work in assisting new models with different looks and styling techniques.

Working with testing photographers can assist a model in their movement and help build their confidence in front of the camera, as well as add more photos to their portfolio and offer their agency more photos to choose from for their composite cards. I mentioned that these specialized training sessions are at the model’s expense, and if the agency is really interested in the model, they may be able to advance the cost of service and take it out of the model’s future earnings in addition to their commission. There are other fees that modeling agencies may deduct from a model’s earnings, if advanced, so be prepared to pay for most of these items:

· Printing of Composite Cards (& future updated cards)

· Model’s Portfolio (a.k.a. your “Book”)

· Extra Portfolio Books (duplicates held at agency & sent to clients)

· Photographic “Testing”

· Cost of Magazines that include “Tear Sheets” (& multiple copies for duplicate books)

· Specialized Modeling Classes (mentioned above)

· Shipment/Messenger Service/Fax (if used to expedite your Book to clients, etc.)

· Model’s Bag

· Agency Poster or Book (a.k.a. Head Sheet) or Website profile

· Rent for Model’s Housing

  Passport (& Travel when not paid for by Client)

It is extremely important to maintain your own ledger for documenting these expenses including the amount of commission that comes out of your earnings. You are considered a “contract employee” or “independent contractor” and you will be responsible for paying your own taxes because it is NOT deducted in your pay. The “plus” is that you may claim most of these mentioned expenses (plus more miscellaneous expenses) on your tax forms as deductions (you MUST follow your state’s requirements).

A special note to be added regarding any “advanced” services provided by a modeling agency on the model’s behalf is that the model should “thoroughly” understand what their contract covers and how liable they are for compensating their advances if the contract is terminated. (Surprise!)

Now, after mentioning “Advances”, don’t be surprised if an agency doesn’t offer advances. The ones that do advance tend to be larger and located in busy modeling markets. Sometimes, they will advance the models that they feel have the greatest potential for future earnings, but not others that they are not quite as sure about. The reality is that an agency is a separate business entity than the model, but it needs both models and clients to succeed financially. This is again why agencies are so selective and tougher on their models that they choose to represent.

Agencies work very hard in promoting "most" of their models, and often they are the ones fighting on your behalf, so it can lead them to be more frustrated when models don’t listen to them and don’t respect their advice. Open communication is important.  Many agents are former models and related industry professionals, so they can usually relate to new models, but they cannot work miracles promoting a model that doesn’t even help promote themselves in a positive way! Arrogance is different than “attitude”, too, so keep a confident “attitude” with your agency, but leave cockiness, arrogance, and entitlement outside of modeling.

Now, if you are doing everything that your agent has asked of you...give them a little time to market you and find out what clients are saying about you...if you aren't being called by the agency for bookings it may that the client is looking for a different look.  Modeling is a business, so try to continue to conform to what clients in your market are looking for.  If you just are not getting calls from your agency and you've really given them a fair amount of time and reasonable effort to do what they have requested on your behalf...try looking elsewhere to places where you have heard positive feedback from other working models. Be prepared for negative comments regarding competition between modeling agencies...it's not uncommon for a little drama.  Just make sure what your contract states for legal purposes...you should know this before you even sign it.

Agencies want to deal with models that are responsible and easy to communicate well with. Agencies are fast acting businesses that require a lot of communication between its employees, models, clients, and everyone in-between. Some of the people involved with the operation of a basic modeling agency are Scouts, Bookers/ Receptionist, Experienced Bookers including Rate Negotiation, & Directors of Different Divisions.

Good luck & remember that modeling is a BUSINESS rather than just a hobby when you are with a modeling agency.  You are in control of your business as a model, so be the best that you can be.  If you're not with the right agency...move on.  If you are not the right model for them...they will not even sign you, so it goes both ways.  Sometimes, both model and agent need to put in a little more effort working together, so you can only be responsible for your end...

Search Amazon.com for modeling agencies 

No Experience Necessary????

Modeling is considered to be an “art” by some; a “business” by others…how do you combine them both?


Experience in modeling has it’s own “on-the-job-training”, but having some prior information can really help. Can you learn how to be a great model from an instruction manual?  Theoretically, can you drive a car just by reading the driver’s manual? (Please say no...)  There are ways of combining artistic expression with fashion & commercial advertising, but it takes practice.  It takes effort to show garments, products, & services at their best, as well as keeping the presentation skills of the model still "looking" professional and effortless in-person, in-print, or on the runway. 

In basic terms, you can learn about modeling from many different resources, but then you have to actually practice what you need to do in order to develop your own modeling skills. Modeling comes like second nature to certain types of people, but there is information that most new models aren’t aware of that can hinder their opportunities at success such as improper posing, unprofessional actions, inappropriate interview techniques, wrong geographical locations, wrong height, wrong weight, wrong size, tardiness or absence from bookings, bad runway walk, etc...just to name a few. 

There are many people on the team who play a big role in whether a model gets the job, but ultimately it is the model who bears the responsibility in how they conduct their personality and show their modeling skills. Many will assist the new model with what basic skills are needed, but no matter what age, the model needs to accept responsibility that this is their career and they need to be the best that they can be at whatever booking comes their way (no matter if they happy, sad, sick, in pain, shy, don't like the specific booking, etc...)

When choosing a career in modeling there are many factors about yourself that you may need to adjust. (There may be factors about yourself that you just can’t change.) There are probably factors about yourself you may not even be aware of (yet...) that people will bring to your attention. A model is in the public eye, so they expose themselves to scrutiny...often harsh comments and opinions from individuals who think that they are entitled to be rude "just because they can".  Even the most beautiful people who start the career as a model are vulnerable and can suffer from a lack of self esteem. 

It's important to learn the business of the industry's expectations of a model.  No one is perfect, but they need you to be perfect for them...no matter what.  Models need to put their egos aside and take critique from those that can help them and learn how to deal with any negative feedback in a professional manner.  No matter what type of modeling a person attempts...there are standards, so learn the requirements of each type and see if you are a candidate. The Complete Idiot's Guide to Being a Model, 2nd Edition 

Don't ever forget that there are TONS of models out there competing for the jobs, too, so increase your knowledge and modeling skills...& be a professional (and charming) "package" that everyone loves to work with!

Reality Television Modeling Shows

When watching reality T.V. modeling shows, an aspiring model should cut through most of the drama and focus on what the show's real modeling experiences can teach you. Heck, use it as a learning experience and take notes (keep a notebook just for modeling notes and info). There’s really nothing to lose by just watching those shows and making your own observations if it helps you understand the process a bit better.  Knowing what to expect, as well as what the modeling industry expects from you can be an important lesson.  Maybe modeling isn't for you...maybe it is.

Plenty of older and “retired” models only WISH they had these shows to watch (or be contestants on) before they became models. It may have helped familiarize themselves better with the industry. Many knew nothing about modeling except what they saw in magazines and catalogs. Their options were much more limited to how they learned by either investing hundreds (or thousands) of dollars to learn more about the “insides” of modeling from a school-based program, attending modeling conventions, or really getting “lucky” (sometimes ”unlucky“) and learning on the job. This is why I am excited to tell aspiring models to utilize as many forms of FREE lessons about modeling because there are other constructive ways to use your money when needed.

If you've missed the shows or certain seasons of America's Next Top Model try looking them up on your cable television or search on Amazon.com for DVD's.  Other shows like Making of a Supermodel, The Janice Dickenson Agency, Janice and Abbey, Project Runway, etc…there are shows popping up all the time on cable, so give it a try for your self-education at home and get some valuable tips...minus the drama.

Model Tip of the Day: Take an ACTING class

$$$ The money is out there for all types of models (in all types of ads), so this is why I wanted to bring out this point first...being considered a "Commercial" model shouldn't be such a downer. Do you like money? If you're a model...money is good. (If you are a human being...money is a good thing.) Do you like having your picture taken? Do you like opportunities for Tear Sheets to place in your portfolio?

Edgy, high fashion can be "artistically" cool to look at, but the lifespan of many of those model's careers is relatively "short" as compared to commercial modeling. The ideal situation is when a model can do both, but because of the super-high standards of tall height, ultra-small size, & often unique or exotic look of the high fashion model...sometimes their "look" is not as "approachable" for commercial advertising.  Most people that will attempt to model will just give up more easily if they feel that being "commercial" is an insult...their loss. 

Many "actors" get commercial print work & commercials because they know how to get into character, so it is common to see aspiring actors dable in modeling.  This should be a hint & tip to "aspiring models"... dable in acting and expand your talent in front of the camera.

(The information is out there...sometimes a minimal cost for an acting class or a commercial modeling book such as How to Become a Successful Commercial Model: The Complete Commerical Modeling Cookbook can offer specialized info that can be applied to your situation.)

You're Too Commercial...

Why is it that models that are trying to break into the modeling industry are so insulted when agents and photographers say that they are too commercial?  Is it because they think they can't be successful unless they are walking on international runways or are featured in an editorial story of a famous magazine? Most new models don't even understand the range of clients, money, and tearsheets that the career as a commercial model may offer them.

There are many models making a decent income whom no one can put a name to their face.  Everyone needs to keep their ego in check and look at the "business" of becoming a successful commercial model (especially if their attempt at high fashion fails). 

What an unlimited opportunity to represent countless commercial clients...How about saying, "Thanks for the COMPLIMENT!  Where do I start?"  How about doing some research that includes reading, writing, and applying the tips that they learn to their own unique situation?  It takes effort for most people to earn money...modeling is no different.  Give it a try...